Posts Tagged ‘7 sisters’

We have reported on Aconcagua and Denali/McKinley – now it is Vinson’s turn – the highest mountain on the highest continent –  the mountain of ice.

You not only have to have a large budget to climb this mountain – it will cost you a minimum of $30,000 – but you also have a limited time in the year when it is possible to climb. Situated on Antarctica, about 1,000 kms from the south pole, there is only a narrow window of opportunity, December, January and February when an attempt on the summit is possible.

At 4,892 metres or 16,050 feet it is the second lowest of the 7 sisters and it is not considered to be a technically difficult climb. However you do want to have several years experience that includes peaks of over 4268m (14,000ft) and you must know the techniques of self arrest, belays, anchors, crampons and how to use an ice axe.

The stepping off point is Punta Arenas (South America) and then on to Anarctica with a 6 hour flight to Patriot hills, the base for Vinson climbs. From there it is a 1 hour flight by Twin Otter to the Vinson Massif basecamp (7,000 ft). You then ascend the Branscomb Glacier for about 2 miles to Camp 1 (9,100 ft.) The next step is 1,000 ft higher at Camp 2 (10,100 ft.) at the foot of a large headwall. Camp 3 (12,300 ft.) is reached by climbing moderate snow slopes to the col between Vinson Massif and Shinn (15,311 ft.) After 1 or 2 days for acclimatisation summit day begins with a 3 mile traverse over       snow slopes to gain the summit ridge and then the summit 3,000 ft. higher.

The video below from rexpem gives you a good idea of what to expect when and if you get there. Like we said not the most technical of climbs in the sense of a mountaineering challenge but in terms of logistics it is not easy. And should the weather close in you can expect temperatures as low as -40 degrees and this is enough to keep most normal people in their bivouac.

The video is of Rex Pemberton who is the youngest Australian to have actually completed the seven summits.

From Antarctica we shall go to Africa – from the freezing cold to the dusty warmth but at over 19,000 feet even Africa’s highest mountain wears a sugared peak.

Yesterday we introduced the Seven Sisters to you – to remind you this is the highest mountain on each of the seven continents and amongst the mountaineering community considered to be a blue ribbon achievement to rank right up there with the greats.

We talked specifically about the America’s highest mountain – Aconcagua – located in Argentina, South America and so today we will travel north to North America’s highest peak, Mount McKinley in Alaska.

Denali – The High One –  is the Native (Athabascan) American word for North America’s highest peak and this is where Fahrenheit and Celsius meet secretly at night at -40 degrees.

Mt. McKinley has been the goal of aspiring high altitude climbers since it was first climbed in 1913. Its reputation as a highly coveted summit derives from its location near the Arctic Circle and the Pacific Ocean giving it some of the most ferocious weather in the world. Because of its weather and ease of access, some climbers use McKinley as a training ground for climbing the 8,000 metre peaks of the Himalayas.

The fact that the West Buttress route is not technically difficult should not obscure the need to plan for extreme survival situations. Of course, some climbers manage to get up and down in a perfectly nice but rare period of good weather. However they are the lucky ones – the West Buttress route is a terribly underestimated climb.

Climbers interested in more detailed discussions of Denali’s routes should consult HIGH ALASKA or the MOUNT MCKINLEY CLIMBER’S HANDBOOK.

Snow and weather conditions for climbing Denali are usually best from May through July. Colder minimum temperatures and strong northwest winds commonly occur in May. Winter climbing in Denali borders on the ridiculous more because of its unfathomable risks than because of its mountaineering challenge. Some of the world’s best climbers have either disappeared or perished form literally being flash frozen.

In the video below from DavidWhitingOutdoors an expedition to summit Denali is described and shown, starting at the 17,000 foot base camp and finishing with the summit of Denali at 20,320 feet – the highest peak in North America.

Where shall we go tomorrow – tune in to discover!

Where to start – that is the question.

‘A’ would seem a pretty obvious answer and so it shall be – Aconcagua – the highest mountain in the Americas and the highest mountain in the western hemisphere – the first of the 7 sisters about which we will blog over the next few days.

The 7 sisters are the highest 7 mountains on each of the 7 continents, although even on this point there is discussion and disagreement but for the sake of space we will look at what are generally considered ‘the 7 sisters’.

They are namely:

• Aconcagua – South America, Argentina – 6962 metres  22,842 feet
• Mt McKinley or Denali – North America, Alaska, USA – 6194 metres  20,320 feet
• Elbrus – Europe, Russia – 5642 metres  18,510 feet
• Kilimanjaro – Africa, Tanzania – 5892 metres  19,340 feet
• Vinson Massif – Antarctica, claimed by Chile – 4892 metres  16,050 feet
• Carstensz Pyramid – Australia, Maoke Mountains, Indonesia – 4884 metres  16,024 feet
• Everest – Asia, Nepal and China – 8848 metres   29,029 feet

But back to Aconcagua – above, photo courtesy William Marler. There are 5 recognised routes.

• The Normal Route  - a scramble, failure due to altitude sickness, no easy ride
• Polish Traverse – as above
• Polish Glacier Route – glacier climb and short technical rock climb – tough
• Argentinian Route –  ice and rock climbing, very difficult very tough
• Ibanez-Marmillod Route – high altitude Alpine climb, definitely only for the very competent

All attempts must start in Mendoza in Argentina where a permit to climb the mountain can be purchased. These will cost as much as $500 depending on the time of year you attempt your climb, the Christmas holiday period is the most expensive.

There are many rules and regulations which you must acquaint yourselves with before you set out – to upset the apple cart will cost you dearly.

To give you a good idea of what it is like if you take one of the ’scrambles’  the video below from Gonzandes dramatically shows a realistic representation.

Its a great feeling to be on top of the world and certainly the conquering of Aconcagua will give you that – its no walk in the park though – you have to be in tip top condition. We will give you a brief blog on one of Aconcagua’s sisters tomorrow.