I did an article a very long time ago entitled “The World’s Toughest and Most Challenging Mountains to Climb – the Himalayas” followed by “Europe’s Toughest and Most Challenging Mountains to Climb” and then “South America’s Toughest and Most Challenging Mountains”…. these 3 articles have subsequently been followed by many more on mountains…
The discussion is basically whether you judge a whole mountain as to whether it’s the toughest to climb, or whether you narrow the question down to mountain faces and ridges. What do you think? Read the comment though – it’s thought-provoking
“I’m going to have two lists. First list I’m going to cheat a bit maybe and you will see why.
List #1 in no particular order – 10 mountains:
Kangchenjunga South Summit
I say I cheated because some would object including Lhotse Middle and Lhotse Shar as separate independent mountains. Similar to Kangchenjunga South Summit which I think many people don’t consider an independent mountain.
Also some might object to Everest and frankly I was thinking maybe Gasherbrum IV, Jannu, Ogre & Latok I-III might be a better pick. The thing to realize about Everest is that its success rate is over inflated because a much much higher % of those that climb Everest use Oxygen and traditional expedition Style climbing with a lot of support. Just think how much lower the success rate would be if Everest was climbed in a style similar to the peaks. Also many people forget that there are some very tough routes on Everest like specifically the Southwest & East faces which are rarely climbed.”
Mountaineer Doug Scott has some pertinent comments along the same lines as my erstwhile commentor:
But to continue:
“OK so for list #2 in which I don’t including mountains in which others see them as a extension of some other mountain.
List #2 in no particular order – Mountain Range Extensions:
Really tough decision between Ogre & Latok I (and even Latok II & III) but probably give a slight edge to Ogre because I think its probably a tad bit tougher all around from all side of the peak compared to Latok I, but just barely (although the north side of Latok I is probably as tough as anything on Ogre)
Other honourable mentions besides Latok I-III:
Great Trango Tower
Mount St Elias
I think a more interesting question would be what are the toughest Mountain faces and ridges…”
So, anyone else like to comment?