So what happens in Melloblocco and where is it anyway?
It is a world-class bouldering area in the Val di Mello, Northern Italy, north-east of Milan and is one of the most amazing climbing valleys in the world. The majority of the bouldering is on either excellent granite, gneiss or limestone rock, across a wide range of grades. There is so much rock around that there is enormous potential for setting new routes/problems.
There are short routes with easy access and complex routes of up to 20 pitches with a 2 hour access hike. Climbing is mostly a combination of trad and bolted slabs, and most of the routes require trad gear and experience.
Melloblocco is the closest thing you’ll get to to a festival in honour of climbing. From Thursday to Sunday, the 6th to the 9th May, 2010, people from all over the world will rendez-vous in the peaceful haven of Melloblocco … like-minded people who love bouldering and climbing and appreciate it when all this is thrown in with breath-taking wilderness and magnificent scenery.
It is a festival about climbing, and has parties, presentations, exhibitions, field tests, meetings, aperitifs and more. Not to be missed is the traditional Saturday-night Party hosted by the official event sponsors, La Sportiva. It will be an awesome weekend.
The number of foreign climbers that reached the event last year show that Melloblocco is well and truly on the map. Last year more than 2,500 registered climbers from all over Italy and 37 different countries were joined by at least another 3000 boulderers on the fourth and final day of the biggest bouldering meeting ever held.
This is the kid that amazed and impressed everyone last year (superspini):
At 17 years old and from the Czech Republic, Adam Ondra (born 1993) is a climbing phenomenon and already has an impressive climbing history behind him. In late 2006 he climbed Martin Krpan in Osp, probably making him the youngest person ever to climb a 9a/5.14d sport route. In early 2008 he climbed La Rambla (otherwise known as La Rambla original or La Rambla extension) in Siurana, Spain, a sport route accepted as 9a+/5.15a. He also climbed La Novena Enmienda, 9a+/5.15a, located in Santa Linya and in 2010, he climbed his first 9b graded climb, Golpe de Estado in Siurana, Spain… to name but a few of his conquests.
Champion climbers, passionate boulderers and beginners will all be meeting here.
So if you’ve got a few days due to you, I’d catch a plane to Milan, then a train from Milan Central Station (Mi C.le) to Morbegno which takes about 1:40 h and costs around €7.50. From there you will take one of the buses which will deliver you to S. Martino. This will take 50 minutes and cost about € 2,50. No cars are allowed in the Val di Mello National Park – it is pristine wilderness and they wish it to remain so.
And if you’re wondering what to do with the kids this weekend… there’s something for them too. Mellobaby starts on Friday morning at 10.00 a.m. and there are already 65 children enrolled between the ages of 3 – 13. Children from abroad are welcomed … so what are you waiting for???
If you need any further information or coercion please go directly to the Melloblocco International Boulder Meeting site…